Every Punjabi household has a version of this. A Sunday afternoon, a steel katori of oil warming in a bowl of hot water, someone sitting on the floor while someone older works the oil into their scalp with the heels of their hands. The champi is not complicated, which is exactly why it has lasted. This is how to do it well, whichever oil you use.
If you have never oiled your hair before, read the whole thing once, then keep the four steps at the end. Twenty minutes, once or twice a week, is enough.
How much oil to use
Less than you think. For shoulder-length hair, start with a tablespoon; for very long or thick hair, two. The oil is for the scalp first and the lengths second, so most of it should end up on the skin of your head, not in your hair. If your hair is dripping, you have used too much, and the wash will take longer than it needs to.
A 100 ml bottle used this way gives most people about a month of weekly rituals. Households that share a bottle get through it faster.
Warm it, do not heat it
Warm oil spreads more easily and feels better on the scalp. Stand the bottle or a small bowl of oil in a cup of hot water for a few minutes, or simply rub a spoonful between your palms until it feels warm. Never heat oil directly on a flame or in a microwave: it is easy to overheat, it can burn the scalp, and heat damages the herbs that were steeped into it slowly in the first place.
The massage is the point
Part the hair in sections and apply the oil to the scalp with your fingertips, not your nails. Then massage in slow circles, moving from the front of the head to the crown and down to the nape, and finally the temples. Use the pads of your fingers and a little pressure, the way you would knead dough. Five to ten minutes is a proper massage; twenty is a luxury.
Once the scalp is done, run whatever is left on your hands through the lengths and ends. Tie the hair loosely or wrap it in an old cotton cloth. Keep an old pillowcase for oiling nights.
How long to leave it in
Three to four hours is the traditional minimum, and overnight is the classic. If the week will not slow down, even an hour before a wash is worth doing. There is no benefit to leaving oil in for days: the scalp needs to be washed clean between rituals.
Washing it out
Wet the hair, apply a gentle shampoo to the scalp before the water has rinsed all the oil away, and work it in; the shampoo binds to the oil and lifts it. Rinse, and repeat once if the hair still feels heavy. Then notice the softness. A separate guide covers this in detail.
Common questions
Should I oil wet or dry hair?
Dry, or just slightly damp. Oil on soaking-wet hair slides off and never reaches the scalp.
Can I comb my hair after oiling?
Yes, gently, with a wide-toothed comb, once the oil has been massaged in. It helps spread the oil through the lengths and untangles before the wash.
How often should I oil my hair?
Once or twice a week is the ritual most families keep. Daily oiling is not necessary and makes washing harder.
Is oiling suitable for every hair type?
Oiling is a cosmetic ritual for softness, shine and a settled scalp feel, and people with every hair type do it. If you have a diagnosed scalp condition, ask your doctor first, and always patch test a new oil.
This guide is about how hair and scalp feel and look with a cosmetic oil ritual. It is not medical advice and makes no medical claims. For a scalp or hair condition, see a doctor.
One oil for the whole ritual
Tulsi, amla, bhringraj, brahmi and neem in cold-pressed sesame.
A four-generation family recipe from Moga, Punjab. Cash on Delivery across India, 30-day guarantee.
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